Few chefs embody global dining culture the way Nuno Mendes does. After decades spent shaping culinary scenes in cities like London and New York, his return to Portugal marks not just a homecoming but the beginning of a new chapter rooted in discovery, tradition, and fresh possibilities. At Flôr and Cozinha das Flores, his two projects at The Largo, Nuno explores northern Portuguese cuisine with intimacy and imagination, offering an experience that feels both deeply familiar and strikingly innovative. In our latest Querido Journal conversation, we sat down with Nuno to discuss his return home, the raw creative spirit of Porto, and where he finds inspiration outside of his own kitchen.
This is Porto, as seen and tasted through Nuno’s eyes.
A Return to Northern Portugal
Having lived and cooked all over the world, you’ve now returned to your home country, though not your hometown, for your projects Flôr and Cozinha das Flores at The Largo. What about Porto feels familiar, and what feels new or different? What makes the city’s dining scene unique in your eyes? What makes Porto so unique?
Nuno: “Returning to northern Portugal has been an incredibly enriching journey of rediscovery. I have childhood memories of being here, but after many years abroad, reconnecting with the region’s ingredients, traditions, and cooking methods has been deeply inspiring. One thing the North has, and will always have, is a kind of alchemy. There’s a remarkable passion for tacho (one-pot) cooking that continues to shape how we think about flavour, comfort, and community at Cozinha das Flores.
What fascinates me most about Porto is the sense of opportunity that still exists. There’s a thriving community of independent, creative projects, ambitious yet free, expressing a raw and authentic spirit. You feel it everywhere: in food, craftsmanship, design, and wine. It’s this interplay between old and new, tradition and innovation, that gives Porto its unique soul and makes it such an inspiring place to be.”
Nuno’s Porto Favorites
You’ve shared your favorite spots in Lisbon before—can you tell us about a few of your go-to places in Porto? Where do you eat, drink, or go for inspiration when you’re off duty?
Nuno: “Cozinha das Flores and Flôr, of course, are on the list. But beyond our own projects, there are several places in Porto that truly inspire me. Vasco’s projects, Euskalduna and Kaigi, are perfect examples—two of the most exciting places to eat in the city, offering a Michelin-style, experiential approach that’s both creative and deeply rooted in Portuguese identity.
I love Pata Gorda for its fresh, modern take on Portuguese cuisine. There’s real energy to it, and a sense of fun and confidence that feels very Porto. On the other hand, Casa Expresso is a proper tasca, full of history, character, and the kind of honest, comforting food that makes you feel instantly at home. Then there are those quick, spontaneous stops you can’t miss, like Conga and Gazela—absolute classics. Not for a long meal, but always for a proper pit stop.
And while it’s not in Porto itself, I have to mention Cooperativa, a beautiful new project by a former chef at Cozinha das Flores. Cooking with roots and conscience. Seeing people like Francisco doing their own thing and thriving makes me incredibly proud.”
Ingredients of the North
Your work at Flôr and Cozinha das Flores celebrates the ingredients and traditions of Northern Portugal. Have you discovered any new ingredients or flavors that have become favorites since working in Porto?
Nuno: “So many. We’ve recently started working with chuchu (chayote), which is fascinating because I’d never cooked with it before. Grilling it, experimenting with its texture—it’s been a wonderful discovery.
But more than any single ingredient, what continues to inspire me is the cozinha do tacho and the alchemy of one-pot cooking that defines so much of the North’s culinary identity. We’re learning how to bring that spirit more and more into our kitchen. And when I go out to eat, I’m always drawn to places that still practice this kind of cooking. The ingredients are, of course, a highlight, but what truly excites me is how endless the possibilities are with them.”
The Dream Porto Dinner Party
Imagine you’re hosting a dinner party at The Largo. What dish would you serve that best represents the regional cooking you love? What wine—or cocktail—are you pouring? What music are you playing? We want to know your ideal Porto party vibe.
Nuno: “If I was hosting a dinner party at The Largo, it would be inspired by the coast—almost as if you could smell the sea in the air. I imagine a long wooden table on our terraço, with dishes that celebrate the ocean’s influence on northern Portuguese cuisine. Seaweed and seafood would take centre stage, cooked over an open fire with smoky, delicate flavours.
There would be big, old-school garrafões of wine, generous and shared freely, alongside some beautiful local gems. I picture live music playing as fire pits keep everyone warm, and the food served in malgas: a really good broth, comforting and soulful, with no need for cutlery. Something like that.”