Beaverbrook, By the Glass

Beaverbrook sits in Surrey Hills, an English country estate with a wine list that travels far beyond it. 444 bottles. 254 wines by the glass. The number is not the point. The thinking behind it is.

That thinking belongs to Giovanni, Estate Head Sommelier, twenty-two years at Annabel’s before he arrived. A Sardinian by birth, a Francophile by temperament. He builds the list the way he hosts a table. Start somewhere, end somewhere different. We asked him about the program, the grapes he defends, and the rosé everyone orders that he would quietly steer you away from.

What was the original vision behind the programme, and where do Old World and New World meet?

We’ve built the wine programme at Beaverbrook Estate with a very simple idea at its core: wine should feel open, enjoyable, and personal to every guest – never intimidating or prescriptive.

The list now sits at around 444 bottles and 254 wines by the glass, spanning everything from the great classics of Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo, Amarone, and Spain, through to expressive New World wines. But the number itself isn’t the point – it’s the philosophy behind it. I wanted guests to have the freedom to explore, not just one glass, but many throughout an evening. You might start with our Beaverbrook Cuvée, move into something fresh and crisp, and finish somewhere completely unexpected. For me, it’s always: start somewhere, end somewhere different.

That same thinking shapes how we approach Old World and New World wines. It’s not about choosing one over the other – it’s about balance and conversation. The Old World brings structure, heritage, and familiarity, with regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Italy often comforting guests who know what they love. Even iconic wines on offer like Petrus carry that sense of history and prestige.

The New World, on the other hand, brings energy, freshness, and discovery – from Australia to South Africa to the Americas. These wines often surprise guests and open new doors.

At the heart of it, my role is simply to listen. Some guests arrive with clear preferences, others are curious. Either way, we guide them gently, tailoring every pairing rather than dictating it.

How do you introduce a new wine by the glass?

It always starts with tasting – often weekly – with suppliers bringing new wines for us to explore at Beaverbrook Estate. The key question is whether our guests will connect with it and enjoy it by the glass.

When we select a wine, we introduce it carefully through pairings and service, watching how it performs and how guests respond. It’s a living list – constantly evolving with what’s already open, ensuring balance and minimal waste.

A big part of the experience is bringing the wine to the table, especially in settings like Our Dining Room – The Japanese Grill, where we can pour, taste, and share it directly with guests. That interaction turns a simple introduction into a moment of discovery. Ultimately, it’s about creating curiosity – giving guests the chance to explore something new, one glass at a time.

Your favourite setting at Beaverbrook for a tasting?

For me, the most intimate setting is The Aitken Room at Beaverbrook Estate, it’s quiet, elegant, and perfectly enclosed for guests. It allows us to really guide the tasting properly – usually a mix of Old World and New World: whites from Spain or Italy alongside Australia, Argentina, or the U.S, and then moving into reds like Bordeaux, Burgundy, or sometimes American expressions.

When the weather allows, I also love taking tastings out onto the Sir Frank’s Bar Terrace. There’s something about being outdoors, overlooking the Estate, that makes the wines feel more relaxed and expressive. It changes the rhythm completely – more open, more social, and very memorable for guests.

You are Sardinian. A grape or producer from the island you love?

I’m not just a native of Sardinia – my father had vineyards there, so wine has always been part of my life.

From Sardinia, I have a real appreciation for Vermentino and Carignano. They’re two of the island’s most expressive grapes – Vermentino being fresh, coastal, and vibrant, and Carignano bringing depth and structure. We’re proud to serve both by the glass at Beaverbrook Estate, giving guests a chance to discover them rather than just read about them.

That said, I have to admit – I’m also a bit of a francophile. My passion for French wines runs deep, so while Sardinia will always be personal, my curiosity and love for wine naturally extend far beyond it.

The most underrated wine, in your view?

For me, it’s the South of France, especially Roussillon and Bandol. These regions don’t always get the attention they deserve, but they produce wines with real character and quality.

Bandol is particularly special – its rosés and reds are much deeper and more complex than the typical Provence style many people know. Wines like Domaine Ray Jane Bandol Rosé are a great example.

And the most overrated?

For me, it’s Whispering Angel Rosé.

It’s become very well-known and widely ordered, but I feel there are many other rosés that offer more depth, character, and value – especially from places like Bandol or the wider South of France. It’s popular for a reason, but not necessarily the most interesting expression out there.

Your go-to for summer?

In summer, I naturally gravitate towards Bandol Rosé (Domaine Ray Jane), Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, and Pinot Grigio. A well-made white Burgundy is also always a pleasure.

At Beaverbrook Estate, we’re fortunate to work with great growers, so there’s always quality to choose from. But ultimately, I believe it’s about timing and context—in the right moment, any wine can work. 

Beaverbrook makes its own sparkling in the Surrey Hills. Tell us about it.

The Beaverbrook Cuvée and Rosé began around eight years ago at Beaverbrook Estate, in collaboration with Albury Estate, a local vineyard. It started as a Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay and has evolved into the Beaverbrook Cuvée and Rosé that we now offer. We’re closely involved each year, even selecting sugar levels at bottling, which keeps each release refined and consistent.

It’s something guests really value – an English sparkling wine rooted in the Surrey Hills, and a project we’re very proud of.